Popping Or Clunking Noise in Front End – Repair Tip Secrets!
January 26, 2012 | 
Author Finding clunking and popping noises are without a doubt one of the most time consuming jobs an auto technician has to face. Sure some noises just require a simple suspension and steering inspection to find worn bushings, tie rods or ball joints but many other times it’s not that simple. While driving, it’s important to notice when the clank or rattle noise occurs, this will be a clue. If the noise only is heard over bumps, it will most likely be something in the suspension. If the noise is only heard on turns, the problem will most likely be in the steering system.
Creak On Sharp Turns in Parking Lot
The most difficult noise that I had to find was several years ago, it was a creaking noise from the back of the car on sharp turns at parking lot speeds. This car had been to several other shops before I looked at it. Needless to say many parts had been installed without any success of silencing the noise. I first started by checking the torque on ALL of the bolts on the suspension. I knew it wouldn’t be that easy, but you have to start with the basics. By using an electronic listening device I was able to narrow down my search for the creak. It appeared as though it was going to be something with the uni-body. Uni-body noises are more likely to be in cars that were previously wrecked. Since this car was never in an accident, I kept looking. I removed the rear seat and went on another test drive. The noise was louder! Behind where the back seat cushion goes, there was two cross support braces bolted in. This was the problem, one of the bolts was slightly loose, allowing the uni-body to flex just enough on sharp parking lot turns to make the noise.
Repair Tip Secrets – Look For The Following
Worn bushings, ball joints or tie rod ends.
Rust around bolt heads or washers (accelerated rust may indicate movement).
Check and lubricate steering stops at control arms to steering knuckles.
Loose items in the car or trunk.
Loose lug nuts.
Loose battery hold down.
Missing exhaust hangers.
Worn motor mounts.
Lifetime Lube
Most older vehicles had grease fittings that were lubricated or greased as part of an oil change; that’s why we called it a Lube Oil & Filter. Most steering and suspension parts today are lifetime lubricated. Meaning they are not greased for the duration of their usefulness. If the parts start making noise they are just discarded and replaced. They can be good otherwise, so it’s important to know they don’t have to be worn out or have excessive movement to make noise.
How to Build a Go Kart – 5 Go Kart Building Secrets
To make a go kart that corners on rails like a Porche, looks like a Ferrari and turns all your neighbor’s heads we need to back up the truck and go to the beginnings.
In short hand, there are five steps to making a simple frame. First of all the following steps are:
1. Engine And Passenger Layout
2. Drive Train System
3. Steering System
4. Brake System
5. Throttle System
Let’s get into it now….
1. Engine And Passenger Layout
First of all the assumption, whether this go-kart is made out of wood or is made out of steel is that you have some sort of layout in mind. Typically the engine is behind, and the person sits in front of the engine. A good safe layout is to have a seat protect the passenger from the engine.
So a structure of some sort is needed to hold the seat in place. You can use a seat off of a chair, but a more protective seat is a ½ piece of plywood angled back and supported. Covering the piece of wood is optional, but it is more comfortable with basically a piece of heavy cloth covering a cushion. The cloth is stapled typically into the board (on the backside).
The structure supporting the seat can be wood, or steel.
The frame work can be wood or steel as well. If using wood, use two by fours placed vertically, so that the strength of the wood is optimized.
If you are using steel for the frame, use a tubing that is at least .070 wall or thicker. The length of the frame is really dictated by how big the person is. Have a person sit comfortably in the leaned back position with a steering wheel in their hands. That is the person compartment. Measure this length.
Add the engine drive section and the person compartment lengths together and that is the length of the gokart. Cut your frame tubes (or tack tubes together) to this length. You will need at least two parallel lengths of tubing.
Space the tubes apart the width of the seat you made (20 inches is a good width).
Cut at least four (4) tubes to the 20 inch length. Lay all the pieces on the floor. Place the 20 inchers at the following locations: Engine Plate area, seat back section, seat forward section, front main bumper tube, and rear main bumper tube. (The bumper tubes can be wider than the frame by 12 inches (6 inches per side).)
Tack the tubes in place using a welder. If you do not have a welder, then you can fasten them together using plates and bolts. (Trust me, buy a $100 welder and save yourself wood chips and drill bits, busted knuckles and exasperation!)
What you have put together now is what I term a “flat-go kart.” You will soon find out that flat gokart frames are weak and require extra stiffening. You may want to put some struts into the system to bolster the frame design. Typically what I use is the seat back as reference. This works very well as an integral frame support, side seat holder, and engine protector.
2. Drive Train System
The next sequence is to place your engine and drive train system in place. At the same time put your seat in position to make sure the seat and engine are not hitting each other. Be sure to make the seat removable so that you can actually work on the engine system when needed.
When placing your engine typically a plate is needed to hold the engine onto the frame. Some designers use tubes with holes drilled in them for engine placement. I prefer the plate option, because it gives me greater options as far as engine choices in the future.
For example on the Phi-Alpha-10 and the Phi-Alpha-9 (go karts I designed) the engine plate served well in allowing me to use different engines, whether Briggs and Stratton, Tecumseh or even Honda. All engine types could be easily mounted just by drilling the holes in the motor mount plate.
Most go karts use a slot system to keep the chain tight. In other words, the engine is mounted not using holes but slots. That works, but honestly, drilling slots is intensive works and requires some patience and thought. So I prefer tensioning the chain, it works better on multiple fronts. (I can go on and on about engines, drive trains and such…but we have got to keep moving here…)
A word about drive systems: A live axle system is really the way to go. All you have to do is mount two bearing brackets and away you go. On a one wheel drive system, you need to have special rims that contain bearings, special drive sprockets that connect to the tires, and the axle if it gets bent, you have to cut it out of the frame and start over….so use a live axle…
But, that is not all true. You can get away with using old lawnmower wheels if they have bushings in them. They work great for acting as bearings. Grease snot out of the axel-hub interface and away you go. Be sure to retain the wheel with a cross bolt that is at least grade 5.
3. Steering System
So after having mounted the rear axle (with brake disc (or brake drum) and sprocket), and having placed the engine and chain system in place, proceed to mounting the front steering system.
Before we did some measurements of the person sitting in the comfortable position, make sure you remember the measurement (relative to the go kart frame) of the steering wheel. That is the target point for the steering wheel.
The actual position of the front wheels is a bit more involved though. You will need a scale. Place the scale first of all under the rear wheels. I typically use a board placed across the rear frame rails underneath the wheel area. Have someone sit in the go kart. (Be sure to a have the front wheels, steering wheel and steering structure on the go kart when you weigh it)
Now proceed to the front of the go kart and place the board in the general area that you want the steering system. Again weigh the go kart.
Take the two weights and add them together. That is the total weight. The front weight ideally should be with-in 5 to ten pounds of the rear weight. This is called 50/50 weight distribution. The more weight you have on the rear, the more the go kart will under-steer. Meaning, when you turn the wheel the go kart will tend to keep going straight. The more weight you have on the front wheels, the more the go kart will over steer. Most drivers are used to under-steer, it is easier to recover from.
But I digress…
Once you have placed the front wheels in place then fix the front steering system in place there. I typically use plates, so that I can move the steering system back or forward. So I weld mating plates on the frame and the steering system, then bolt them together.
For wood go karts, you can actually design a very stable wood go kart using the carriage style steering as long as the steering is supported an not aloud to twist.
A word on steering systems: You can purchase from the store steering assemblies that you tack onto tubes. These work real well, with one exception, they typically come in .750 inch diameter shafts, where most high speed bearings use .625 diameter shafts. The shafts may need replacement. Look for .625 shafts… Additionally, there are ways to make the steering more tractable and more user friendly, these involve geometric relationships such as camber, caster, Ackerman and so forth.
4. Brake System
Now that you have the steering system in position, you can button up the hole project by covering the bottom of the go kart. Sheet metal (like furnace guys use) is the best option. Buy some tech screws (the ones with drills on their ends) and zip through the sheet metal into the tubing. Once you have that in place, you don’t have to worry about your feet hitting the ground!
Now it is time to place the brake system. You notice we placed the brakes in place on the live axle, now the actual braking mechanism needs to be mounted to the frame work. You can either weld it, or bolt it to the frame. I prefer bolting, it is more forgiving and easier to repair.
A word on brake float: The brake system should float. What that means is that the disc either needs to be mounted freely on the shaft, or the brake caliper needs to float. If the neither is floating, you will get a binding, and prematurely worn out brakes, and fast! So keep that in mind. Something has to float, the disc or the brake caliper (1 of the 5!)
For your brakes it is important to have the brake off while driving. A good spring is needed to keep the pedal back when the brake is not being used.
On a wood go kart be sure to use the same thought into the brake system. A lot of force is going into the brake boards so be sure to account for this in the brake mechanism which usually involves force multiplier linkages.
5. Throttle System
This seems like the most inane or over looked system on the go kart. It shouldn’t be though. A good connection between the throttle and the pedal is needed and a good range of motion is needed too. Most pedals give you different holes to work with, allowing your several options in throttle actuation.
Again, like the brake, a good spring is needed. Do not use a spring on the carburetor, but use the spring in the pedal, or pedal system.
A word about throttles: most engines come with governors. It is a good idea to use the governor system, because it helps keep the engine at even speeds and from over revving.
How a Gel Filled Seat Cushion Can Save Your Life
A good quality gel seat cushion will go a long way in helping you relieve your back and neck pain. These amazing cushions, recommended by medical professionals both orthopedists as well as general practitioners around the world have proven to be one of the best as well as the cheapest things a patient suffering from backaches, spondylitis as well as scoliosis may do in order to help both manage as well as curtail the growth of their condition.
It is a proven fact that the seated position puts the most strain on the human body. Whenever you are seated, there is enormous pressure that is exerted on your tailbone due to it being in contact with whatever surface you are seated on, be it concrete or a mattress. This pressure travels up through your tailbone by way of your spinal column up to your neck. This causes the discs of the spinal column to compress and being exerted by this kind of pressure for prolonged periods results in back aches and may even lead to the development of more critical conditions.
Gel seat cushions are known to outperform all the other types of seat cushions that are usually used to decrease the pressure on the tail bone. Yes, this means that the gel seat cushion will do more in helping relieve your problem than a foam or an air cushion. The best part about these gel seats is that not only can they be used at your home or office but can also be taken along for long road trips so that you arrive at your destination in the best and healthiest shade possible.
How to Make Patio Cushions For Outdoor Furniture
Instead of going to the expense of buying new outdoor furniture and patio cushions why not update your existing garden furniture by making some new cushions. If you make your own outdoor cushions you can get the exact size, design and level of firmness and comfort you are looking for – and save money too!
To make patio cushions, you do need a bit of skill with the sewing machine but otherwise they are pretty straightforward as patio cushions are simple shapes.
1. Measure Your Chairs
Measure the seat width to get the width of your cushion. If the chairs have arms then measure the part of the seat inside the arms for easier fitting of your cushions. Then measure the length of the chair from the top of the chair back (or wherever you want the cushion to start) to the edge of the seat.
2. Decide on the Thickness
If you are replacing existing cushions, use these as a guide – do you want your cushions just the same or a little thicker. If you don’t have existing cushions you will need to decide how thick you want your cushions to be. About 1 – 1.5″ is about right for most chairs to add a layer of comfort.
3. Buy Materials
Buy a piece of foam for each chair in the thickness and level of firmness you require. Remember that if you have a classic chair the cushion will need to bend where the seat meets the back of the chair so make sure the foam is pliable enough for that. Use the foam to estimate the amount of fabric you need. Remember to include measurements for each cushion, front and back as well as sides and seams. Choose your fabric and buy matching zippers for the cushions which are two to three inches shorter than the longest edge for easing fitting of your cushion pads. Remember to choose tough weather resistant fabric for outdoor cushions.
4. Create a Pattern and Cut the Fabric
Draw a pattern using your foam as a guide – create pieces for top, bottom and each side of the cushions and mark the additional allowance for seams. Cut out the pieces for each cushion
5. Sew and Stuff Your Cushions
Sew your fabric pieces together inside out to form the cushion covers sewing the zippers along the middle of the longest sides and using double rows of stitching to reinforce seams. Turn the cushion covers the right way round, open the zippers and put the foam inside the cushions then close the zippers. Test the cushions on your chairs. If you find they slide about too much add tie tabs to the cushions so that you can keep the cushions in place.
Top Ten Things to Do in Spring
It must be serendipity that I am in currently in the janitorial industry and that I enjoy cleaning. I use my skills as a sales and marketing director to sell my ritual of welcoming spring.
While some people enjoy lounging, daydreaming or reading when the days are still cool but sunny I enjoy tying up loose ends and starting with a “clean” slate. So what if others do not share my enthusiastic spring dance in honor of mother-nature! Why do they insist on their own dance and will not applaud my magnificent performance? Here are my favorite things to do in spring:
1. Spring clean & de-clutter home & office:
Make a caddy of your basic tools. I use multi-purpose cleaner, microfiber cloths, lamb’s wool extension duster, furniture polish, disinfectant spray, trash bag and a laundry basket to put items I am removing from the room. If your ceilings are high you may need a small step ladder. I also have a broom to get behind furniture I can’t move and for carpet edges and corners. A vacuum with attachments is also very handy. Place your equipment outside the entrance of the room you are cleaning. Give each room a thorough, top to bottom cleaning. This is the perfect time to launder the curtains and bedding. If you are up to the challenge you can also flip furniture cushions, mattresses and rearrange the furniture. The best approach I have found is to start each room at the entrance door and circle the room. Start your high dusting, touching all surfaces on the walls such as picture frames, shelves, etc. If the curtains are not going to be taken down, remove the dust on the tops & fabric folds. Cobwebs can get anywhere, including the flat walls. Get under and behind the furniture with the duster and/or broom. Dust inside the window frame. Wash the windows. Use a microfiber with just a mist of all-purpose cleaner and dust the surfaces you can reach. The last thing I do is use my disinfectant spray and vacuum.
2. Get rid of clothes not worn:
I bring storage containers or boxes and kitchen trash bags and a black marker. First go through the shelved clothing, second the clothes that are hanging and third clothes that are in drawers. Make a pile on the floor of clothes that should be place in the garbage. Box up the seasonal things you are going to keep. Things you are giving away put into the trash bags. Use the marker and put your name and season of clothes on the boxes. Label the bags with the person’s name you are giving them to, yard sale or Goodwill. Store away the seasonal boxed clothes, put the give-away clothes in your garage or auto so you will not forget to take them away.
3. Clean yard, porches & garage:
All of these are good for family team work, but this one especially is. The garage needs and occasional de-clutter and cleaning. You will need a broom, plenty of boxes or plastic containers, a black marker and maybe some white mailing labels to write on. If you have a large major crisis in there you may want to copy the show “Clean Sweep” and get out three tarps on the drive or yard. Tarp number one is for things to keep, tarp number two is for giving away or yard sale, tarp three is trash. When you have everything out that you can, you may now dust, sweep and/or pressure wash. Organize tools by their use and season. Keep the yard tools together, garden tools and the basic repair tools together, etc. The sports equipment and toys are also organized and the off season sports equipment and toys should be boxed and put up. Tarp number one “things to keep” will be boxed up and labeled and neatly put back into the garage. Tarp number two “things to give away or yard sale” should be boxed, bagged or price tagged for yard sale. Label the give-away or yard sale items and neatly put back into the garage. Tarp number three “trash” items need to be bagged if they can fit into garbage receptacle or hauled to the dump if necessary. Now the garage is neat and clean!
4. Thoroughly detail autos:
Have a contest with someone if you are detailing two autos! Guard yourself from the sun. Tools needed are a vacuum with attachments, trash bag, towels, paper towels, 2 microfiber cloths and a large terry cloth, two old large beach towels, a long handled car wash broom if you have one, and a stiff brush for the wheels & tires and bucket & sponge. I also fix a small caddy with window cleaner, Mr. Clean, some Q-Tips, Armor-all, Febreze, car wash, wax with an applicator or soft cloth and tire “black” spray. Start on the inside and fill up your trash bag with any garbage in the auto. Look under seats and in the cracks of the seats. Pick up items that will hurt your vacuum. Take out all the carpets and lay them down to vacuum. Then fill a bucket with about a gallon of water and an ounce of Mr. Clean. Use this water first to scrub the seats with a very damp cloth, it may remove some stains and it smells good. Then wash the dash, wheel, seat dividers and inside the doors. Constantly clean your cloth in the bucket. Dip Q-tips in the water and use to get the dash cracks, corners and areas the cloth couldn’t get into. Spray Armor-All on a microfiber cloth and wipe down the dash and hard smooth surfaces made from similar material to shine up and make like new. When finished put that cloth away from the others so you will not use it again. Time for the inside windows! I use a window cleaner and paper towels to wash all the inside windows, then I go back over them with a microfiber cloth and it really polishes good. The last thing I do is vacuum the carpet. Be sure to adjust the seats forward and backward to get all areas. Last I give the fabric and carpet a spray of Febreze, carefully avoiding my windows. Vacuum the carpets that you took out. If you want to organize the trunk and vacuum, this is a good time. Now get the windows up and shut the doors. Empty your bucket and refill with plenty of water and a little carwash. Hose down the entire auto and wash by sections. Immediately rinse off each section as you go around the auto. When you think you are done walk around the auto for any touch-ups. Now use your stiff brush and scrub the wheels and tires a few times, then rinse. Hose off the carpets you removed and let air dry. Use a beach towel to dry off all areas of the auto. After drying and no water spots it is time to wax. My favorite auto wax is the new spray on wipe off type, but if you are using the paste wax it is done the same way. Put wax on a section at a time, and then remove it with the second beach towel. Let the paste wax dry before buffing off. Again check all around the auto for any areas that need touched up. After waxing I wash the windows with paper towels and then polish with the microfiber cloth. Your wheels and tires should be dry by now so you can spray your “black” spray on them. Now that is a sparkling beauty!
5. Get planting beds & flower containers ready:
You can start seedlings indoors or wait for the nursery centers to stock your favorite plants. Guard yourself from the sun. Tools you may want for the large planting beds are a tiller (if large area) rake, shovel, garden claw, landscape fabric or plastic, gloves, trash bag potting soil (my favorite is Miracle Grow with the water holding material). First pull all weeds and place in trash bag. Rake the surface of leaves, old mulch and debris, put in trash bag or compost bin. Use shovel or garden claw to turn the soil (till if large area) and mix in your potting soil. After the area is complete, cover with the landscape fabric or plastic. When you are ready to plant, cut holes in the landscape fabric or plastic and place plant where you want. To finalize your flower gardens, cover the fabric or plastic with mulch or rocks. For the flower containers, if they have previously been used they must be washed and let air dry. When the weather is warm enough you can plant. Place some large stones or broken pottery pieces in the bottom for drainage. Fill pots ¾ of the way full. Decide where to place your plants and surround them with potting soil and firmly press down. Give a good drink of water. Check on weekly to remove dead material and water if needed.
6. Start seedlings indoors:
Pick a few seeds you want to start, veggies, herbs, flowers (Burpee is my favorite brand). You can use a sun lamp, although I never have. Just don’t start too early or they will grow too large before you can transplant. The easiest way is to get the jiffy pots ready for water and seeds. You can also use a rectangle receptacle like a cake pan and fill with potting soil and sprinkle on the seeds and water. Pour off excess water. Save your seed envelopes to mark your plants or you won’t remember what you are growing and where. When the weather is warm enough and all chances of freezing are over they can be transplanted either in a prepared bed or container.
7. Write down new things to do in the summer and fall:
I like to write down things I haven’t done in a while, new things or things to do with particular friends and family; go to museum with mother; watch movie with Linda. Learn how to rollerblade, take a painting class, run a marathon, go boating and so forth. I have things to do indoors for rain and outdoors for sunshine. Keep your list next to your calendar and when you want something to do check one off. Make arrangements a week or so ahead so you will have a full social calendar.
8. Begin a customized fitness plan:
First schedule a check up with your family doctor and make sure you are okay to become more active. Define what you want to accomplish and a date to accomplish this by. If you have more than one goal, do this for every goal. Example: I want to lose 30 pounds by August. Next step is to plan out how you will accomplish this. Example: I will clean out my kitchen and replace with healthy low calorie foods. I will walk one mile every day. I will lift weights thirty minutes every other day and so on. Keep positive affirmations and motivational post-its on your bathroom mirror and refrigerator.
9. Get a new hair cut, hair style or color:
Be browsing the magazine for cuts and color you like to get an idea or two. Visit your favorite hair salon or one that a friend refers. Ask the stylist to recommend a cut and or color for your complexion, lifestyle and budget. Ask questions regarding maintenance before you decide. Your cut must be quick and easy to maintain if you lifestyle is very busy. If you are young you can easily go more dramatic and bold. If you are more mature or have a career you may want to stick with some classic styles and color, but different than you usually get. This is a great ego boost and when you are confident and happy, it will rub off on everyone around you.
10. Take a long walk, hike or bike ride in a scenic area:
This is a great family outing, or couples and friends outing. Bring your dog if you can. If you have a favorite park or recreation area, plan a day and a picnic for this event. This could ba a great way to scout out a camping area. Take the basics, sandwiches, fruit and water. Dress for the occasion and don’t forget sun protection. Bring a rain jacket or wind breaker in case the weather suddenly changes. Let someone know where you are going and bring a cell phone. Bring a Frisbee or football to mix things up. Just enjoy the time to spend with good company and appreciate the beautiful earth.
With a “clean” slate completed there is still ample time to soak up all the crisp air and sunshine. I feel I have accomplished something great and it makes me feel terrific about the next great season!
Look for more articles coming soon!
An Orange Kitchen Color Scheme
You might think that orange was a poor choice for a kitchen as it has so much warmth about it but it can also be a brilliant and unusual choice giving your home an exclusive and unique look in a sea of bland colored kitchens. Orange, as you are no doubt aware, is an intense color, and it is impossible to ignore it but it is also both stimulating and welcoming, two qualities which are valuable in a kitchen. But how can you incorporate orange without creating a color scheme which seems over the top?
1. In a Pure White Kitchen
If your kitchen units are shiny white, your work tops dark and your flooring neutral (for example wood effect laminate or granite tiles) then you need to inject some color on your walls otherwise your kitchen will be pretty cold and bland. The thing with a kitchen is that there is often very little wall space on show after everything is installed so orange is ideal to fill in the gaps and add interest.
2. In a Country Kitchen
Burnt orange gives a wonderful rustic touch to a country kitchen filled with solid wooden units. It works well if you have hardwood or terracotta flooring whether that is terracotta tiles or terracotta colored vinyl or laminate. It also lends itself well to a Mediterranean style and adding blue accessories and putting Mediterranean hand painted pottery on display will accentuate that look.
3. On One Wall
If you think all-over orange will be overpowering, you can add a contrast wall in a larger kitchen where other surfaces are a plain color such as white or cream. This works well to mark a separate dining area in your kitchen and make that more inviting than the cooler tones of the kitchen area. Be sure to tie the two areas together by taking some orange over into the kitchen area in the form of accessories or even in a pattern in the kitchen curtains.
4. As Accessories
Any room needs a focal point or two to lift it from the bland and boring and even if you are not ready for solid orange walls, you can have fun with orange accessories. An orange roller blind or kitchen curtains would look good at the window and would contrast nicely with any plants you have growing on the sill. Look for orange storage jars and prints for your walls too. You could use an orange patterned fabric to make kitchen seat cushions. Or display a bowl of oranges (Edible accessories!) There is even a Kitchenaid mixer in orange too that you can proudly put on display.
How to Remove Stains in Leather Seats
You left the car window down or the sunroof open and there’s a water stain in your car’s leather seat….or your girlfriend spilled here red wine in your leather car seat on a night out on the town….or your kids decided they were a soon to be artist and tried their techniques out on your leather car seat with a pen, arrggg. Got kids myself, so feel your pain. Stain removal in leather seats can be tough, here’s a few tricks to help get you going.
As a professional leather repair specialist I’m here to tell you that there are not to many products that can be used on a leather car seat that won’t remove the finish before removing the stain. Most leather in todays cars is a finished leather with a water borne urethane leather dye applied to it and is pretty susceptible to chemicals and can be removed pretty easily with a solvent cleaner. So when in doubt call a professional.
Water stains in Leather Seat….this is a pretty hard one to get rid of. I recently had reader send me an email on how he could get the water stains out of his car after leaving his sunroof open. This part is kinda for him considering I think I lost his email with pictures, I did get to see them though, so not all was lost. The pictures showed a crease that ran along the middle of the leather seat where the water had puckered the leather. In this type of situation there are two things we could do, one is sand the crease out and with some fillers and dye make the seat new again, this is where a leather professional comes in to play, or replacement of the section that is creased, that’s where an upholstery shop comes in. In these type of situations there aren’t any leather conditioners or cleaners in the world that will remove a creased or puckered leather, what happens is the actual structure of the fibers in the leather have been altered and what you see is what you have.
If the water hasn’t puckered the leather and has just left a stain, a little trick I learned from my good friend Dwain Berlin with Leather Craft Secrets, and you go to your bread box in the kitchen for this one. Take a piece of bread and roll it up into a ball and rub and blot the area with the bread ball, works pretty good. Dwain has a lot of great advice for leather care, and if your interested in some great fun with leather go check out his book, it’s quite impressive and I myself learned a few things.
Most of the time water will just evaporate and with no problems and the stains will disappear. If your car leather gets wet dry it as best you can with a towel and then condition it with your Lexol Conditioner. One way to dry the cars leather is by leaving the windows down and setting it in the sun to dry, or crack the windows and turn your car on with the heat on full blast and let it run for about 30 minutes. I’m not real hip on that one cause it’s a waste of gas but it does work to dry things out better. But always condition, some rain waters are pretty dirty and harsh and the leather needs those extra nutrients to keep it soft.
If the stains are just too bad then new leather dye is the only way to bring it back then call your local leather professional like me to come and make it new again.
Mold Stains in Leather Seat….Or mildew which ever. This one kinda goes along with the water stains. Take and mix a cup of water and a cup of rubbing alcohol and mix them together, take a towel and rub a small amount of the solution onto the stained areas, until the spot is gone, again watch for dye lift, this trick works pretty well and usually removes the mildew pretty quick without dye removal.
Food Stains in Leather Seat….This one can be an easy one if you just don’t eat in your car, but I’m just as guilty as most and eat on the run. A mild dish soap and warm water with a rag or scotch brite pad will do the trick in most cases. Most automotive leather is finished and food stuffs usually will wipe right off. If you run into a stubborn one though try a little all-purpose degreaser on a rag, don’t rub too much or dye may lift. If the stain on your leather car seat from food doesn’t come up with this then the dye from the food has penetrated the fibers of the leather and has dyed it, so it’s time for a professional leather dye job.
Aniline leather or NuBuck leather is a different story though, thats the soft stuff you see as an inserted piece usually in the middle of the seats. You can use the soapy solution but water spots sometimes show up, so a special cleaner works best for this kind of leather. One I suggest is from the guys over at Leather Magic, they have a NuBuck Leather Care Kit that is the answer to all your NuBack needs. This kit includes cleaners and conditioners for the soft stuff, this type of leather is delicate and should be treated as such. Don’t use your usual leather cleaners and conditioners on this type of leather due to fact of the oils in them will damage the look of the leather, then no more soft feeling NuBuck, so definatly check out Leather Magics NuBuck Kit.
Ink, Marker, and Crayon on Leather Seat….Urgent!!! Get to it as soon as you can! If the ink is fresh you have a better chance of removing it from the leather then not. Rubbing alcohol, with a little bit of acetone added will sometimes get it. I’ve heard of hairspray, tried it with not much luck. Usually when an ink pen and leather come together they marry and don’t split to easily. Ink is a dye and is made to penetrate whatever it comes into contact with. Most ink spots I’ve ran into I’ve usually had to dye the leather to cover the spot.
Crayon on a leather seat can be a booger if it’s melted in the seat, you can try this but be careful not to burn or pucker your leather. Take an iron and a paper towel and lay the paper towel over the crayon and with a low heat rub the iron over the paper towel over the crayon. The crayon will melt into the paper towel, move the towel around to clean spots until the crayon is gone, a little of rubbing alcohol should remove the remaining. This trick works on carpet and cloth too. If they’re just marks on the leather seat a little soap and water should do the trick or even a little rubbing alcohol on a towel works good to. If all fails there is a product from Protective Products Corp. that is all natural with no solvents that will remove crayon and lipstick it’s called Solv-It, but just like anything try a spot in an unsuspecting spot to see if it removes dye.
One last trick that I’ve read about around the net and am in the process of testing it, but it the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, they do work around the house, so why not the car too. I’ve removed crayon and marks on my walls before with them, I do notice it take a little paint with it though, but they do work. If you use one, be careful and don’t go ape sh$#, rub it then look, rub it then look, they will remove dye, so when using it take your time and check it as you go.
Sweat Stains in Leather Seat ….Salt stains from sweat can be pretty gross looking, but there is a little trick. Take and make a solution of 3 parts vinegar and one part water and wet a towel and rub the area clean, the vinegar breaks down the and helps to remove the stain.
Paint on Leather Seat….Paint removal on a leather car seat, well that ones a hard one. If it has dried it’s probably there to stay. If it’s a water color, just use soap and water to remove it. Latex house paint, you can try a little Goof Off but keep in mind this is a solvent and can damage the leather seat and remove dye. I have in the past been able to take my pocket knife and scrape it off. Wet the area first with a little water and lightly try to lift the paint off with your knife or even a razor blade, but don’t cut the leather. Mostly though this really doesn’t work without removing the dye underneath, but I have had luck sometimes. If its car paint, try a little paint reducer on a rag, but just wipe lightly and don’t soak the area with the reducer. Solvents and leather seats just don’t mix.
My best advice to all when it come to stains in your leather car seats, and that is to be conscious of what you do, try to keep our little Picasso’s pen free, keep our food out of our cars, roll the windows up and sunroofs closed, and always remember to treat the leather with your Lexol Conditioner on a regular basis, this helps to keep the leather car seats protected and soft and makes it easier to get the spills and accidents from turning into disasters.
But always remember that we leather repair professionals are here to save those leather car seats and bring them back to there original state. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to contact me for all your leather repair needs.
69 Places For Passion – Lusty Locations to Make Love
When looking to spice up your love life, many couples look for adventurous or novel places to make love. There are certain locations that enable sensual love making while others demand quicker acts of passion. A bedroom is a comfortable place to make love but there are so many exciting and lusty locations to have passionate sex. Whether spontaneous and urgent or planned for fun, sex in new locations can be extremely thrilling.
Creative lovers are always on the look out for opportunities to get wild and frisky. With the right inspiration, every day sex can be transformed into an unforgettable experience. You may have seen other lovemaking location lists but let’s push the envelope and go for at least 69 — always a good number for sex ideas. Remember that for some locations, there are pleasurable sex activities other than intercourse. Oral and manual stimulation can be just as satisfying and more practical in some situations.
Fooling around as passengers in a moving car (back seat while a friend drives, discreetly in a taxi, in a limousine with a privacy screen).
In a parked car during a romantic or exciting event (watching fireworks, admiring a sunrise/sunset, sheltering from a thunderous rain storm).
In a honeymoon suite but not during your Honeymoon. Elegant and fancy or themed for fun, recreate your honeymoon or practice what it would be like.
In a seedy motel. Arrive separately and roleplay an office coworker affair or a prostitute fantasy.
In a high class hotel suite with a panoramic window view — keep the curtains open if you dare.
In a room with at least one hundred candles casting a soft glowing light over your naked bodies while you enjoy sensual pleasuring.
Frosty fornication in a snow fort or igloo you made together is great fun. You can even fashion a special mound to mount on.
On a boat in the open air (not below deck). Consider a canoe, row boat or rubber raft if you don’t have access to a yacht, sail or speed boat with a large deck.
Slick with massage oil wresting on a plastic sheet or in a blowup pool.
In the shower enjoying the sensual, slippery suds and a hand held water massager. Intimate bathing and bonding or hot steamy sex — what ever suits your mood.
In an English garden surrounded by fragrant blossoms. Make it more fun by dressing elegantly and indulge in a sense of aristocratic debauchery.
In a gazebo under the stars, moonlight or noon day sun. Semi outdoor sex as secluded as you dare.
On a king size water bed fitted with satin sheets and lots of fluffy pillows.
In a cool, fast moving stream or small creek. A swirling pool under a water fall is an amazing location if you can find one.
On a swing strong enough for two. Actually swinging together with penetration is tricky, however there are many other fun activities you can do involving a swing.
In a hammock between two palm trees on a secluded ocean front beach.
In a lookout tower or observatory. Finding one that provides a scenic view and opportune privacy will be its own adventure.
Rear entry on a bridge while overlooking the depth below. Even more intense on a swaying rope bridge for added adrenaline rush.
In the stairwell of an apartment or office building — better exercise than taking the elevator. (or on the stairs in you own house)
On the top of a large hill or small mountain under the stars or full moon. Take in the view with a bottle of wine then enjoy each other.
On a train. Either in a rare, vacant car or a private cabin, “playing on the tracks” is a temptation to be tried.
In a van, the back of a pickup truck or on the hood of a sports car.
While skinny dipping at night in a pool, river, lake or ocean. Note that cool water tends to make some bits firmer while others shrink.
In a bath, hot tub or spa. Soak, soothe and sensually stroking each other or stimulate wet and wild sex with invigorating water jets.
On a roof. Outside on the flat top of tall building or (carefully) on a low, slightly sloped roof can be thrilling.
In a field of tall grass or flowers. A secluded, lush green meadow next to a small stream is ideal.
Under a cherry, apple or other fruit tree in full bloom. Enjoy the sensual sights, sounds and smells of Spring whenever you can.
On a pile of pillows. An assortment of shapes, sizes, colors and textures all piled for pleasure. Have a playful pillow fight. Try new positions.
In a barn. A horse stable may bring out the animal in you. The hayloft (on soft straw) can be extremely fun. Roleplay cowboy, stable hand or farmer’s daughter.
Deep in a forest up against a large tree. Agile couples can even try various positions in the tree if the branches are just right.
Outside in the refreshing, cool rain during a hot day or night. Thunder and lightning add to the thrill.
Safely under a sheet metal roof during a hail storm or torrential down pour.
Anywhere under the hot sun with an ice dildo. Make one by freezing a plastic water/pop bottle filled with water and cutting the plastic off.
In a sleeping bag in the open air under a clear sky bright with stars. Go as far away from city lights as possible. Aurora lights will make it even more special.
On a tiny island. Revel in quiet seclusion or spice it up with roleplay. Pretend to be castaways or, for a historic setting, a scout meeting a native first time.
On a beach on the hot, dry sand or right on the shore with the waves lapping up around you. Anywhere you can see and hear huge crashing waves.
In the middle of a sports field or stadium (golf course, soccer, football, rugby, race track, etc.). Most likely best during off season or at night.
In a cave, tunnel or under a bridge. The echoes of your ecstasy or the sounds of traffic overhead can be exciting.
On a trampoline or blowup bouncer. Standing intercourse while jumping may be tricky. An exercise ball will give a similar bouncy feeling for other positions.
In a small clothes or coat closet with the doors closed so it is completely dark. Will someone open it and catch you in the act? Fun at parties.
On a billiard table as a forfeit for losing a few games of Dirty Pool or Six Nine Ball.
On a fur rug/coat in front of a warm, glowing fireplace at night.
In every room of your home and your lover’s home if you live separately.
Creatively on or using stable pieces of furniture. On the kitchen counter, dining table, sofa, foot stool, etc. On the floor and up against the wall too.
In front of a mirror or beneath one attached to the ceiling. Get a revealing new perspective of your love making from new angles.
In front of a tripod mounted video camera or webcam. Record for later, view live or stream to an internet audience if you are an exhibitionist.
In a small log cabin, thatch hut, mud hut or teepee. Include the possibility when planning vacations.
In a garage, boat house or storage shed. Surreptitiously meet while others are outside unaware of your naughty behavior.
In a tree house or fort (either a chance discovery, your own or a neighbors). Pretend you are teenagers fooling around for the first time.
Next to an open fire while camping. A roaring fire stimulates passion while softly glowing embers at night instill romance and intimacy.
On or against a clothes washing machine especially during the spin cycle.
At a sex club or fetish party in a private cubicle or on display for others to see.
On exercise equipment at a private gym. You will definitely enjoy your workout.
In a dark corner of a dance club with a pulsing, pounding beat to grind to. A skirt and no panties/underwear makes this a much easier to perform.
In a parking lot between parked cars/vans. Try underground and above ground parking lots but take care for security systems and surveillance cameras.
Snuggling together in a sleeping bag in a small tent. Weather conditions, wilderness sounds or scary stories can set the mood.
On a designated border line between two countries, states or provinces — one person in each territory engaging in diplomatic relations.
In or near a cemetery at midnight during a full moon if you dare. Standing sex will have both your legs shaking with the thrill.
In a public restroom, change room or even a friends bathroom. Novelty and the risk of getting caught coming out together make this exciting.
On a plush lawn at night or early morning while it is still wet with dew.
In a theatre during an arousing show or to make it more interesting. Remember to bring some wet wipes to clean your fingers.
In a pile of fallen leaves or freshly cut grass.
In a bed covered with rose petals or lots of money.
On a private patio, porch or deck (poolside even better). A sturdy lawn chair or table, air mattress or a few seat cushions may come in handy.
In an elevator (late at night on a weekday might be a good time and dress for a quickie).
At a costume party. Dress the part for a sexy roleplaying scenario. Flirt and play act until you can secretly meet to fulfill your fantasy.
Out on a high rise apartment balcony or next to a large window near the top floor. Try standing rear entry while looking down below.
In a private adult playroom stocked with a wide variety of pleasuring implements. Bondage devices, costumes, toys and other playthings will whet your desire.
Inside a walk in vault (it has happened but tends to require an employee or owner to facilitate). A walk in fridge or supply room is a quick alternative.
Some lovemaking locations may actually be a little tricky, costly, too exotic or even slightly dangerous depending upon your circumstances. However, if an idea intrigues you, you can always setup a scenario and roleplay a situation in a pretend location. With a little imagination and a few props, you can create a fantasy setting to fulfill your desires. You can even recreate historical, fanciful or alien space settings.
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Tags: Illness, Locations, Passion, Places, Symptoms | 
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Options For Treating the Painful Coccyx Tailbone
There are a variety of reasons why the coccyx tailbone will give you pain. The main reason for coccyx pain is the fracture of the tailbone when you accidentally slip. Yes that is correct, when you fall or slip the tendency is that you will hit the floor with all your weight gravitating backwards. This will mean that all the body weight will be transferred on to the tailbone. Now when that happens the tailbone is likely to get fractured or broken.
The fractured tailbone cannot be surgically treated unless it is so severe that it needs to be surgically removed. The surgery of the coccyx is not a good thing as things can go wrong during the surgery and it can affect other vertebrae in the spinal column. The better option is to take the pain relieving cortisone treatment or the painkillers that will help you be free from pain for a couple of months.
Visiting a massage therapist who is a specialist in the treatment of the coccyx disorders can be helpful. The challenge lies in the fact that there are not very many folks who are expert in giving the massage at the coccyx area. Massage in the wrong position can even worsen the pain.
The other reason for the coccyx pain is the childhood defect in the tailbone. This type of defect cannot be treated and the pain at best can be avoided. The best option for this is to use the seat cushions. These seat cushions are designed so as to make sure that the tailbone is not in direct contact with the chair on which you sit or the car seat on which sit and drive.
There are several types of seat cushions available in the market. These seat cushions come in a variety of styles and designs. Some are gel filled and some have the memory foam in them. You need to select the one which will help you alleviate the pain. Again, remember this is just prevention and you just cannot eliminate the pain.
In some cases the dislocation can happen because of the fall even though there is no fracture. Expert orthopedic surgeons can easily put back the dislocated tailbone in place. The challenge is to find a doctor who is an expert in all this. You get into the wrong hands and the chances are that you will end up having much more pain than earlier.
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Outdoor Decorating – Garden Love Seats
Once again it is time to get started with doing some completely new decorating outside your home and you are not sure where to begin.
Perhaps you have never really gone shopping for an outdoor love seat and have no idea what styles are available.
If you recently added a brand new patio to your outdoor home decor or want to spruce up an existing one, garden furniture can make your patio more appealing while also providing a comfortable seating area for family or guests.
Five tips for your outdoor area or patio..
1. Garden Loveseat Made of Plastic
If your deck or patio is completely exposed with no covering, then an all-plastic loveseat will be a good choice. Sturdy plastic is resistant to weather elements including rain, sun rays and snow/ice. Plastic is also easy to clean without worry of mold or mildew.
If you have pets, you won’t have to worry about pet dander, clawing or staining on your furniture. You can spray cleanser on them and easily wipe it away or simply use a hose to wash plastic furniture! Plastic is also available in many colors – white, gray, black, brown, red, etc. – so you can easily match the chair to other patio decor items.
2. Tubular Metal Chairs and Furnishings
Consider treated tubular metal patio furniture if you’re looking for a more sturdy, durable love seat. These can come with seat cushions for more comfort, and have many styles to match your decor. Metal garden love seats are typically more expensive than plastic; however, they will last longer. You can also buy a matching patio table and chairs with an umbrella.
3. The Old Standard – Wrought Iron
Wrought iron is one of the most expensive options for a garden love seat, but is very popular due to the many beautiful styles available. Wrought iron will hold up for many, many years if taken care of. It must be re-painted occasionally to ensure resistance to weather elements, but you can paint it different colors when you wish to change your patio decor.
4. You See These Everywhere!
If you prefer wooden materials for your patio or deck furnishings, you’ll find plenty of styles and types of wood to meet every need. From rustic or country style wooden love seats to attractive, more elegant styles, these can add beauty to any patio arrangement.
Be sure to buy a wooden garden love seat that can hold up when exposed to weather elements. Wood is an excellent choice for covered decks and patios or screened porches. Keep in mind that you’ll need to re-finish and stain the wood ever so often to keep it looking its best.
5. Wicker is a Decided Favorite Among DIY Decorators
Garden love seats made of wicker are another popular choice for covered patios and porches. Wicker is lightweight and sturdy; it is also moderately priced if you’re on a tight budget.
Color Choices
You can leave it a natural wicker color (usually light or dark brown) or spray paint it to match your decor. Stores often sell a variety of colored wicker love seats as well. There are also entire sets of patio furniture in matching wicker designs. Many wicker garden love seats come with cushioned seats, but wicker is also comfortable without cushions.
Before you go shopping for a garden love seat to enhance your yard or patio, read over these buying tips again to get ideas. After all, the love seat and other furniture you include in your decorating scheme is going to be there for a long time. Be sure you love the look!